Rookie wrencher replaces the front pads and rotors using only 1.5 hands, well, sort of

To bring you the latest write-up we answered the call of a damsel in distress. Yes, we just did the brakes on the allroad about a month ago and yes, we should have taken pics then, but we were too tired and had too much stuff going on at the time. So, when a female forum member put out an SOS about her A4′s brake wear indicator, we felt obligated to help her out and finally get this write-up done for you folks. The catch — I recently got my hand caught in an attic fan and have two broken, splinted and stitched fingers on my right (yes I’m a righty) hand. Hmmm, this should be interesting…

The truth is, a routine front brake job is not difficult at all. A basic tool set is all you really need and there are no funky angles, no limited clearances or anything else out of the ordinary. That being said, corrosion and heat can sometimes complicate basic bolt removal, so have your big levers and PB Blaster on hand, just in case.

Audi Models

• Most Audi/VW models 1998 and newer

Parts Required

• New Rotors
• New Pads

Tools Required

• Jack and jack stands or automotive lift
• Breaker bar
• Metric ratchet set
• Allen head socket set
• Pliers
• Zip ties or something to support caliper while removed
• Flat head screwdrivers
• Mallet
• C-Clamp (optional, but the better way)
• PB Blaster penetrating oil

Instructions

Overview of the Procedure

We will be jacking up the front of the car and supporting the vehicle with jackstands. Next, we will be removing the front wheels.  With the wheels off, we will remove the front calipers, brake pads, carriers and rotors.  Next, we will install new rotors and pads and reassemble everything.  We will cover brake bleeding/brake fluid replacement in another writeup.

Note 1: Most Audi and VW models have very similar, if not identical, front setups. This writeup is applicable to most modern model lines.

Note 2: If you are doing brakes on any Audi/VW with an OEM air suspension,  remember to place the car in JACK MODE before lifting the vehicle.

Step 1

Open the hood of the car and remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir.  Break the wheel lugs free, then proceed to jack the front of the car.  Place the vehicle on jacks stands. Remove the front wheels.

Step 2

Locate the wire spring clip holding the tension on the outer brake pad. Using a screwdriver and/or pliers carefully remove spring being careful not to bend it.

Step 3

Locate the two caliper slider bolts on the back side of the caliper. The actual bolts are covered by small, plastic dust caps. Remove the dust caps with your fingernail. With the dust caps off, you should be able to access the 6mm or 7mm (model dependent) allen heads. Loosen both slider bolts until you can slide the caliper off the rotor.  This is done by sliding the caliper towards the back of the vehicle. Rest the caliper on something, or secure it to vehicle with zip ties or some other means. Do NOT let it dangle from the brake lines.

Note: If you have the slider bolts completely removed and are still unable to free the caliper, use a screwdriver to apply pressure to rear pad — this will retract the caliper piston and free up the assembly.

Step 4

Locate the wear sensor wire by following the lead from the pad to the clip. Using a small screwdriver, carefully pry the botton of the clip out of the anchor hold and then twist the clip to remove it from it’s anchoring location. Once free, press down on the tab and separate the lead from the plug.

Step 5

Next, simply remove the worn inner and outer brake pads by pulling them out.  

Step 6

Locate the two carrier bolts (typically a 21mm bolt) at the rear of the carrier.  Remove the upper and lower bolts completely and remove the carrier.  Once the carrier is removed, remove the rotor.  You may have to give the rotor a few lite whacks with a mallet.

Note:  The carrier bolts may be very hard to remove, especially if a previous tech used an impact gun to drive those suckers home.  If this is the case, leverage is your friend.  If need be, raise the vehicle, or jack up the suspension to give you clearance to get a big lever on those bolts.   When we did the allroad, it took four arms and an 18″ lever to get one of the bolts free.   On the A4, it took the same number of arms and a slightly bigger lever.   This was the only step that required use of more than my 1.5 hands.

Step 7

Place the new rotor on the hub and temporarily secure it with one or two wheel lugs (hand tight).  Re-attach the carrier and make sure bolts are tight (but not impact gun tight).

Step 8

Using an old brake pad and a C-Clamp, retract the caliper piston by placing the flat surface of the pad over the piston and then tightening the c-clamp until the piston is fully retracted.  If you don’t have a C-clamp, I’ll cover an alternate method in the next step.

Note: We have a caliper retractor tool, but we typically don’t use it on the front as we don’t want to accidently spin the piston.  The C-Clamp method is very effective.

Step 9

Clip the inner pad into the caliper and re attach and anchor the wear sensor lead.  Make sure you hear the sensor “click” into place.   Route the lead so it won”t sever or become damaged by the many moving parts in the area.  Insert the outer pad and place the caliper over the rotor.  Align the slider bolts and tighten down.  Replace the dust caps.

Note:  If you are unable to get the caliper over the rotor with the inner and outer pads installed, the caliper piston needs to be retracted further.  If you didn’t have a c-clamp in the previous step, insert the inner pad in the caliper and leave the outer pad out temporarily.  Place the caliper over the rotor.  Using a screwdriver, pry the caliper so the inner pad applies force to the back of the rotor.   You should feel and see the piston retracting with minimal force.  Once retracted, insert the outer pad and tighten down the slider bolts and insert dust caps.

Step 10

Remove the wheel lugs and double check the tightness of all hardware and connections.  Align the rotor so the all lugs holes are accessible.  Place wheels back on the car, lower off jack stands, torque the wheel lugs and replace the brake reservoir cap.  Close the hood, wash your hand (one should still be clean) and you’re ready to bed the new brakes. Once the pads are bedded, you should be all set.

Step 11

You are done! Enjoy your new brakes!

Check out the actual report I received from Blackstone Laboratories:

To learn more about it, check out these two links:

• Bob the Oil Guy: History of Oil Analysis?
• Blackstone Laboratories: What is Oil Analysis?

Thou Shall Not Fear the Pinch Bolt

So your allroad has the dreaded death knell and is bowing to the air spring gods. No need to worry, as this is one of the easiest DIY’s to do on this car. And if you’ve done any suspension work at all, I assure you this repair is 10 times easier.

Before you go any further, get to your local FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store) and pick up some PB Blaster penetrating oil and go spray your pinch bolts with it. If you can soak them for a day or two, it makes life MUCH easier. Don’t fight me on this! If you soak them for an extended period of time, chances are they will come out. This is, by far, the easiest way – we had my right front air spring out of the car in 15 minutes after wheel removal and none of us had done this repair before.

Audi Models

• Audi allroad C5 (2001 – 2005)

Parts Required

• Replacement Front Air Spring
• O-Ring Kit
• Shock Mount

Tools Required

• Jack and jack stands
• Metric ratchet set (16mm, 18mm, 19mm)
• Metric wrench set (10mm, 16mm, 18mm)
• Torx ratchet heads
• Triple square ratchet heads
• Allen wrench/spinner (something with leverage)
• Torque wrench
• Needle nose pliers
• Mallet
• Flat head screwdrivers (small and large)
• Lithium grease
• Large channel locks
• Dremmel (optional)

Instructions

Overview of the Procedure

With the front of the car supported by jack stands and the front wheels off the car, we will be removing the airspring and shock tower from the car. Once removed, we will separate the shock tower, shock mount and strut from the airspring. We will replace the shock mount, airspring and o-rings with new replacements, reassemble everything and then reinstall them into the car.

Step 1

Place the car into JACK MODE by turning the key to the ON position and then simultaneously pressing  and holding the suspension UP/DOWN buttons on the dash until the icon appears.  Once the suspension is locked, turn the key off, open the hood, and remove the cowl cover. This is done by gently removing the rubber seal and pulling the plastic cover toward the front of the car. Once the cover is out of the way, you can access the three 16mm bolts that secure the shock tower.

Note 1: Now is a good time to look at your cabin filter and replace if dirty. Also take a flashlight and look under the battery for any sitting water or debris. If you see either, remove the battery and battery tray and clean out the area.  Also, be sure to check the drainage hole beneath the battery.  If clogged, water will backup and eventually seep into the passenger compartment and possibly fry some expensive electronics. This topic is the subject of a recent class action lawsuit.

Next, Jack up the front of the car, support with jack stands at the pinch weld/jack point.  Remove the front wheels and place them out of the way. Next remove the fender liners with a torx head and ratchet.

Step 2

Using a 16mm ratchet and extension remove the three bolts holding the top of the shock tower in place. These bolts will be reused so put them aside.

Step 3

Using the 16mm ratchet and an 16mm wrench, loosen the pinch bolt that should have been soaking in penetrating oil for the last 2 days. If the bolt does not thread out on its own, you may have to give it a few whacks with the mallet and screwdriver/punch. Once the pinch bolt is removed, a few upward blows with the mallet are needed to free the upper control arms.

Step 4

Using a 10mm open end wrench, loosen the air fitting at the top of the air spring. Once free, you will hear the spring fully deflate. Adjacent to the air fitting, on the underside of the fender well, there is a PIA 1 cent locator clip that must be removed before the entire shock tower will come free. To remove this, use whatever works! In addition to excessive force and swearing, a  small screwdriver, a hammer, a dremmel or needle nose pliers are all acceptable approaches. Feel free to mangle the clip. We did not replace it, the dealer does not replace it, but if you are super anal, it is a very inexpensive part.

Step 5

Loosen the 18mm lower strut mount bolt using a ratchet and wrench. If your car has never been touched since factory assembly, the bolt will be inverted, ie the head facing the rear of the car.  If this is the case, you will need your floor jack to position the lower control arms in a position that allows proper clearance for the removal of the bolt. Be patient, once you find the sweet spot it will be relatively easy to remove, however, you may need the assistance of the mallet and a punch to push the bolt free of the hole. Once the bolt has been removed the entire assembly can be removed from the car.

Step 6

With the assembly out of the car, we can begin dis-assembly.  We will start by removing the air spring from the shock tower.  Using the ratchet and the triple square head, loosen the bolts.  With all bolts removed, separate the shock tower from the air spring by simply puling them apart.  With the shock tower removed you will now see the rubber shock mount. Using channel locks, grab the shock mount and loosen the strut bolt with a 19mm ratchet. Once you break it free, it should spin off without too much effort. If it does not, you may have to use some ghetto means to loosen it.  My friend grabbed 19mm socket and held it with channel locks while I took the Allen key and placed it through the socket into the top of the strut. Using this method we were able to have one person turn while the other held and the nut came free.  With the nut removed, the strut can be removed from the air spring.  Discard the air spring, o-rings and shock mount immediately so they are not confused with the new parts.

Note 2: Inspect the strut for leaking fluid or damage. If it needs to be replaced, now is the time to do it.

Step 7

In the new kit, locate the two o-rings.  Lube both with the lithium grease and seat the larger one into the channel at the top of the new airspring.  Place the smaller o-ring over the top of the strut shaft and seat on the barrel.   Insert the strut through the airspring and place the new shock mount in place.  Tighten the nut for the strut using the same ghetto method we used to remove it — a socket held with channel locks and the allen key.  Once tightened, lube the smaller o-ring with lithium grease and seat in the shock mount.   Carefully align the shock tower with the airspring and hand tighten the triple square bolts while checking to make sure the the o-rings stay properly seated.  Torque the triple squares in a star pattern (just like wheel bolts) to 23nm.  Please note that we had to do 3-4 passes in a star pattern before achieving the proper uniform torque settings.

Step 8

With everything reassembled, you can begin to the reinstallation process. You may have to compress the strut a bit to get it back in the wheel well. Once you align the upper shock tower bolts, hand tighten them. Next, align the bottom strut mount bolt. You may need to use the floor jack to get the orientation correct. Feel free to re-insert the bolt from the front side as well. Fully tighten the 3 upper bolts and the lower strut bolt. Next, seat the upper control arms into the pinch bolt housing. You may need to use the mallet to get them fully seated. Reinstall the pinch bolt and make sure everything is properly aligned. Reinstall the air line being careful not to cross thread or strip it.

Step 9

Before re-installing the wheels, it is a good idea to pressurize the system and look/listen for leaks. Jack up the suspension and support it with an additional jack stand. Turn the car on and remove jack mode. The system should begin to pressurize and you will likely hear the compressor turn on. Once a level is indicated, put the car back into Jack Mode and turn the key off. Go inspect the airspring and look and listen for anything unusual.

Step 10

If all is OK, remove the jack stands from the suspension and reinstall the wheels. Jack up the front of the car again, remove jack stands at the pinch weld and start the car. With the car running, slowly lower the car until there is weight on the wheels, but do not lower it all the way. Remove the car from jack mode and allow some pressure to build before lowering completely. With the car on the ground, cycle through the levels to make sure all is working properly.

Step 11

Replace the cowl cover and rubber seal, close the hood, clean up your tools and you’re done!

To celebrate the Memorial Day weekend, the Tri-State Chapter of the QuattroWorld.com Audi forum gathered for their second annual BBQ. People showed up from all over New Jersey and Pennsylvania with their families to enjoy some good times and good food on a nice Saturday afternoon. We tagged along to dine on the delicious food and catch up with each other.

This BBQ is an addition to the weekly meet that many of us attend. While it may seem strange to some, it’s quite amazing how fast time can fly by when you’re standing around talking to fellow Audi owners. The Tri-State area is fortunate to have a passionate and active group of Audi owners. While everyone was a newcomer at one point or another, many of us have forged friendships that continue on the outside of the Audi community. These are friendships that transcend states, countries, and sometimes, even the Audi brand.

Please flip through the picture gallery to see some of the people, food, and cars that made this event special.

Untie your shoes and loosen them up a bit. Ahhh, that’s a bit more comfortable now, isn’t it? Ok, good. Now try sprinting to the other side of the room.  How’d that go? I’m guessing you eventually got going, but maybe we should snug up those laces and try this little exercise again. I’ll bet you got going much more quickly this time.

Engine mounts, transmission mounts and the snub mount are much like your sneakers. Untied they are comfy, but when it comes to getting up and going, it’s best to have them on nice and snug.  OEM mounts are designed for comfort, soft and spongy. Yes, they keep the motor in the engine bay, but still allow plenty of power train movement so you and your passengers don’t feel the vibrations of the motor. The trade off of course is that it detracts from throttle response. This is why Drive Train Stabilizer (DTS) bars and engine mounts are often upgraded.  However, the snub mount is often overlooked.

What is a Snub Mount?

The snub mount is hockey puck shaped piece of rubber. It fits over a protrusion at the front of the motor and fits into a cage mounted behind your radiator support. It assists in keeping the front of the motor from moving around too much under throttle load. By simply upgrading this mount to a firmer one, you can expect to experience much better throttle response. My personal favorite mount is the one from 034Motorsport. It is called a “zero movement” mount and after installing it, you’ll agree the name is very fitting.  You will feel the idle a bit more, but when cruising, you’ll be very comfortable. Most importantly, when you mash the throttle, you’ll get going, in a hurry.

The transformation was very noticeable on my 2.7T allroad with a Tiptronic.  The “tip lag”, “throttle lag” , “turbo lag”, etc. is 90% eliminated, yet comfortable enough for me to haul around my wife and young kids. The power delivery is much more linear and the power comes on much more predictably.

If you are doing the timing belt, it is a no-brainer time to do this mod, as you will have the front of the car apart anyway. If you are not due for a timing belt, but have some free time, it’s not hard to pull your bumper off, loosen the rad support and pop this sucker in place.

So easy, a 4-year-old can do it!

$120 for a oil change? You have to be kidding me, especially if you do it every 5,000 miles with synthetic oil. Now, I know Audi says you can go 10,000 miles, but that dates back to the time when Audi had to pay for maintenance, and most agree synthetic oil is on its last legs after 5,000 miles, especially in a twin turbo motor. For about 50% cheaper and 30 minutes, you can change your oil by yourself, or train your kid to do for a box of animal crackers.

Audi Models

• All Audi 2.7T Motors
• This DIY was performed on a C5 allroad 2.7T Tiptronic

Parts Required

• Complete 2.7T Oil Change Kit consisting of:
• Seven (7) quarts of Audi approved synthetic oil (see the complete list: Audi Oil Quality Standards TSB)
• OEM oil filter
• Replacement oil drain plug (optional)
• Ground cover and shop towels (not in kit)

Tools Required

• Ramps or jack/jack stands
• T-50 Torx head
• Wide flat blade screwdriver
• 19mm wrench or socket
• Strap wrench
• Funnel
• A willing 4-year-old

Instructions

Overview of the Procedure

This is probably one of the easiest tasks to do on your car.  You will be removing the splash guard on the underside of your car, draining the used oil, replacing the oil filter and refilling with clean oil.  Depending the exact model of your car, you may not need any special tools other than Torx ratchet heads, which are only about $20 for a set.

Note 1: Many companies claim to have filters that fit the 2.7T motor – they are not all equal. Many do not fit, as the threading is too shallow, and others are MUCH smaller than the OEM/Mann filters. I strongly suggest Mann or OEM only for filters.

Note 2: Audi has approved oils for each motor, use only the oils that meet this standard. Check the label on the oil. For the 2.7T, it should say “Meets VW Spec 502 00″

Note 3: Even with only a few minutes of driving, parts of the motor will be hot, use caution.

Step 1

I prefer to do oil changes with the engine slightly warm (not flaming hot), so drive the car for about 5-10 minutes (not just idle).  Drive the car on ramps or jack up and place on jack stands to give sufficient access to the front undercarriage.

Step 2

Remove the underside splash guard. This is accomplished by removing the two T-50 Torx bolts and the six Flat Head dowel pins. With all hardware removed, pull toward the rear of the vehicle and down. Place out of the way.  With the splash guard off, its a good idea to take a quick look around for any signs of leaks or any other potential mechanical issues.

Step 3

Position ground cover and catch basin below the 19mm drain hole. Loosen the drain bolt and out comes the old, nasty oil. While the oil is draining, see if you can remove the oil filter with your hands. If not, use the strap wrench to gently loosen it. If your catch basin is large enough, unscrew the filter entirely. Please note that the filter will be full of oil.  Allow both the drain hole and filter hole to drain completely.

Step 4

Once the oil has completely drained, replace the 19mm drain bolt with the new bolt supplied in the kit. You can torque to 30 nm, or do 1/4 turn past snug. Using clean oil, lube the gasket of the filter and screw it on hand tight, using one hand. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, and there is NO need to use a strap wrench or any other device other than your hand.

Step 5

Next we begin the refilling process. Open the hood of the car, unscrew the oil cap and place it out of the way. Place a funnel in the filler hole.  SLOWLY pour oil in, being very careful not to spill or splatter. It’s also a good idea to check for leaks after some oil has been poured in. Assuming no leaks, add 6 quarts of oil and then check the oil level on the dipstick. If below the operating range (indicated by the marks on the dipstick) add enough oil to indicated range being careful to not overfill. (Overfilling oil can be equally as bad as underfilling). My allroad will typically take 6.5 quarts.

Step 6

Screw oil cap back on, double check for leaks under the car, reattach the splash guard, clean up your tools and you’re done. You can take your used oil to any automotive parts stores for recycling. Most major chains take it at no charge.  After driving around for a few minutes, double check the oil level on even ground.

Step 7

Go get that kid some well earned animal crackers!

Nothing lasts forever…

As the C5 platform ages, the Tiptronic transmissions can become troublesome.  Audi claims the transmission is filled with “lifetime” fluid and does not recommend service of any type. That being said, the term “lifetime” is subjective and it’s naive to think that the fluid can maintain its lubrication properties indefinitely.  If you have over 60,000 miles on your car, you may want to consider doing this service. Additionally, if you are experiencing hard shifts or hesitation, you should also consider this service. This can be done solo, but there are several steps where an extra set of hands will come in handy.

Audi Models

• All Audi 01V Tiptronic Transmissions
• This DIY was done on an A6/allroad C5 2.7T Tiptronic car

Parts Required

• At least seven (7) quarts of transmission fluid
• A/T Filter & Pan Gasket Kit
• Fluid pump

Tools Required

• Four (4) jack stands and a floor jack or an automotive lift (Note: It is NOT advisable to use ramps at all as you will need to put the car in gear while lifted)
• Flat head screwdriver
• Small level
• 8 mm Allen head socket
• 17 mm Allen head socket
• T-25 Torx head socket
• A good ratchet set with extensions
• Torque wrench
• Waste catch basin
• Disposable ground cover (job can get a bit messy)
• Ross-Tech VAG-COM cable and software
• Lint free disposable shop towels
• Hyperactive/Insomniac Bulgarian Elevator Repairman (optional, but recommended)

Note 1: Powerflush or Transmission flushes of any kind are NOT recommended.  It is theorized that these types of services can actually deposit debris into the valve body, which will only compound problems, or in a worst case scenario, ruin the transmission.

Note 2: At 60,000 miles, timing belt/water pump service is coming due.  It is a good idea to do the transmission service AFTER the timing belt/water pump has been replaced.  The reason being is the transmission cooler lines need to be disconnected to access the crank lock pin.  This is not a big deal, but you will lose a bit a transmission fluid in the process.

Instructions

Overview of the Procedure

With the car lifted and perfectly level, you will be draining the fluid in the belly pan, removing the belly pan, cleaning it and reinstalling it with fresh fluid, filter and gasket. In order to accomplish the proper fluid level, VAG-COM cable and software must be used to read the fluid temperature while filling. It is essential to cycle through the gears with the car running while filling in order to get the proper fluid levels. The fluid expands when hot, keep this in mind when draining:

1. HOT FLUID, take precautions to not burn yourself
2. Hotter the fluid, the more will drain, the more clean fluid you can get back in.

Step 1

Using a jack and jack stands or a lift, raise and support the car at a height sufficient to gain access to the underside of the vehicle. Make sure all tires are at least four (4) inches off the ground. (NOTE: on the allroad, make sure to engage JACK MODE, before jacking the vehicle. This is done with the key on and holding both the up and down buttons until the icon appears on the dash).

Step 2

Remove the rear splash guard covering the transmission belly pan.  This is done by taking a flat blade screwdriver, and twisting the five dowel pins counter clockwise.

Step 3

Take a small level and check belly pan for level.  Take measurements sideways and front to back.  If the pan is not leveled, make appropriate adjustments until perfectly level.  This is a very important step.

Step 4

Locate the 8mm Allen drain plug and the 17 mm Allen fill plug on the belly pan and position your ground cover and catch basin below them.

Step 5

Loosen 17mm Allen fill plug first.  We want to make sure we can refill the transmission before we drain it.  Do not remove it yet (if you did, no big deal)

Step 6

Locate the 8mm Allen head drain plug and remove it.  Allow the fluid to drain.

Step 7

Remove the fill plug, allow any additional fluid to drain (there maybe none).

Step 8

Using the T-25 Torx head and ratchet, loosen the 27 fasteners holding the belly pan.  Remove all but 2 fasteners on opposite ends.  If you have an extra set of hands, have one person support the pan while the other removes the remaining fasteners.  Lower the pan and gasket and dump the excess fluid into your catch container.  Remove the old gasket and discard.

Step 9

The next step involves wiping down the inside of the belly pan and cleaning the magnets.  Solvents are not necessary and you do not want the risk of any residue solvents breaking down the new fluid.  Simply wipe down the inside of the pan and clean the magnets with disposable, lint free shop towels.  Make sure no debris of any kind is left behind during this process.

Step 10

Locate the two the T-25 Torx fasteners securing the filter and remove them.  Be careful not to touch or loosen any of the other fasteners.  With the fasteners removed, gently coax the filter out by gently pulling down and rotating side to side.

Step 11

Lube the gasket on the new filter with clean ATF fluid.  Install the new filter and torque the fasteners to 5Nm (44 INCH lbs)

Step 12

Reinstall the Belly Pan and New Gasket. Using the socket + extension, we inserted 4 fasteners at opposite sides to maintain alignment of the gasket and fastener holes. Once properly aligned, hand tighten all the bolts.  Once all bolts are in place Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft lb).  Do not use RTV or gasket sealers. In order to achieve uniform torque, choose 2 fasteners opposite of each other as start points. Torque the fasteners in an alternating fashion until all are fully secured.

Step 13

Replace gaskets on drain and fill plugs, lube both with clean ATF fluid.

Step 14

Install drain plug and torque to 12Nm (9ft lbs)

Step 15

Hook up the VAG-COM cable and go to: Select Control Module > 02 Auto Trans > 08 Meas.  Blocks > Group 004.  This will allow you to monitor the temperature of the ATF fluid.  Do NOT start vehicle yet, just keep the key in the ON position.

Step 16

With the car still OFF, begin pumping fluid back into the transmission.  You will need to insert the hose up through the fill hole and towards the back of the vehicle.  It should take about 2.5 – 3 quarts before some overflows.  Hand tighten the fill plug.

Step 17

Take an initial reading of the ATF fluid temp.  It should read well below 40 degrees Celsius.  If the fluid is hotter than that, you’ll need to wait until it cools down.

Step 18

Start the car. While keeping your foot on the brake, cycle through all the gears, holding each gear for 15 seconds. Go from “P” through “D” and back up from “D” to “P”. It is not necessary to run through the gears via the TIP mode. With the car in “P” and motor still running, remove the fill plug again and start pumping again until overflow. Also, be mindful that the ATF fluid temp must be below 40 degrees Celsius. Cycle through the gears again and pump fluid in until overflow while the car is still running. Repeat this process as many times as you can before the fluid reaches 40 degrees. Once you are approaching 40 degrees Celsius, re-install the fill plug before shutting off the motor. If you fail to do this, the car will dump fluid. Allow the car and fluid to cool down.

Step 19

Once the car and ATF Fluid cools down (we waited until 32 degrees Celsius) start the car again and cycle the gears, same as before. Open the fill plug and continue pumping fluid into the transmission until over flow. Continue to cycle the gears and pump fluid until you reach 40 Degrees. Once you reach 40 degrees, pump until overflow, and reinstall the fill plug.  Once the fill plug is re-installed, shut off the motor.  Torque the fill plug to 80Nm (59 ft lbs).

Step 20

If you did the process correctly, you should have gotten 6.5-7 quarts into the transmission, minus the spillage.

Step 21

Clean up your tools and work area and go for a test drive.  Drive with a light throttle until all that fluid has a chance to work itself thru.

Step 22

Re-inspect belly pan for leaks, etc and assuming all is OK with test drive, re-install splash cover and you’re done.

Step 23

If you did not get at least six (6) quarts in, or if issues arose on the test drive, jack the car up again and allow to cool for several hours or overnight. Start the car, cycle the gears, remove the fill plug and keep pumping fluid until you get overflow at 40 degrees Celsius. Remember to re-insert the fill plug before shutting down the motor.

Step 24

You are done! Enjoy much smoother shifting.

Unleash the hidden power and make your presence known

We just finished installing the STaSIS exhaust and 034Motorsport high-flow catalytic converter in our A4 B7 2.0T Manual Avant and are VERY pleased with the results. In fact, we strongly believe this exhaust/HFC combo is the best one currently available for the Audi A4 B7 2.0T cars. It produces a deep (not obnoxious) tone and the quality on both pieces is second to none. Additionally, the we are happy to report strong gains across the entire power band. The car already had the STaSIS ECU upgrade and installing this combo felt like the car got chipped again. Here is the quick and dirty DIY with photos. It’s totally doable as a DIY but you have to be brave Enjoy!

Audi Models

• Audi A4 B7 2.0T Manual/Tiptronic (2005.5 – 2008)

Parts Required

• STaSIS Engineering’s Catback Exhaust System
• 034Motorsport’s High-Flow Catalytic Converter
• 034Motorsport’s O2 Sensor Spacer (to eliminate CEL)
• All Required Installation Hardware

Tools Required

• Ramps, a jack, and jack stands (or a lift if you have access to one)
• A good ratchet set with wobble socket and extensions
• O2 sensor removal tool
• Torque wrench
• Triple square bit (10mm)
• PB Blaster
• Anti-seize

Instructions

Step 1

Back up onto the ramps and jack up the front of the car onto the jack stands.

Step 2

Spray PB Blast on all four (4) turbo to catalytic converter nuts to loosen them. Get as much leverage as you can to make it easier.

Step 3

Remove the air box by following the procedures in the photos. It should be very straight forward.

Step 4

Unplug rear O2 sensor (near the coolant expansion tank) by removing it from the plastic strap and clipping the zip tie behind the motor. Leave it attached to the cat. You’ll remove it once the cat and down pipe is out of the car.

Step 5

Unplug and remove front O2 sensor by using the O2 sensor socket.

Step 6

Hopefully, the PB Blast has worked it’s magic and the turbo to cat nuts are loose. Unbolt the three (3) accessible turbo nuts using a 17mm socket.

Step 7

At this point, go underneath, remove the belly pan(s) and unbolt fourth turbo nut. Unbolting the final turbo nut will take some wobble socket acrobatics but should be pretty straight forward. We assume you know how to remove a belly pan

Step 8

Now it’s time to remove the spring bolt that holds the down pipe. Use two wrenches if needed.

Step 9

Remove the cross member using a 10mm triple square bit.

Step 10

Separate the down pipe and rear exhaust by removing exhaust clamp using the 13mm socket. You may need to cut the rusty clamp bolts so it’s a good idea to have some spare fasteners handy.

Step 11

Remove stock cat and down pipe from engine bay by carefully twisting and threading them through the engine bay. Carefully remove the rear O2 sensor from the stock cat. Nevermind the ugly dude in the photo

Step 12

Time to remove the stock exhaust. First, pop the middle exhaust hangers off. Use a large open wrench to help with the  leverage.

Step 13

Unbolt rear exhaust hangers over mufflers and remove the stock exhaust from the car. Note how restrictive the stock system is. This is why we recommend doing both the HFC and catback together.

Step 14

Now the fun part. Unpack your goodies. Bolt together the 034 High Flow Catalytic Converter and STaSIS downpipe with the provided M8 bolts. Don’t forget to insert the down pipe gasket (supplied in the STaSIS box) between the HFC and down pipe. Be sure to add anti-seize on the bolts and torque them to 20 ft. lbs. You can also bolt on the the rear O2 spacer to the HFC.

Step 15

Carefully thread the HFC and down pipe assembly through the engine compartment. Slide on the turbo to HFC gasket (it can only go on one way, take note of the stud pattern). Add anti-seize to the turbo studs and torque them to 35 ft. lbs. Again, the last bolt under the HFC is best accessed from underneath the car.

Step 16

No pretty much do the reverse installation. Put the spring bolt back in. Thread in the rear O2 sensor into the 034Motorsport spacer. Thread in the front O2 sensor. Reconnect the rear O2 sensor plug at the firewall. Replace air box.

Step 17

Hang the resonator section of the STaSIS exhaust on the middle exhaust hanger, insert the gasket, and bolt to the down pipe.

Step 18

Hang (with OEM hangers) and connect the one side of the rear section (w/ muffler) into resonator section. Then, loosely tighten the clamp so that it can be later fine tuned. Repeat the same steps for the other side.

Step 19

Slip on the exhaust tips and tighten them down with the clamps provided in the STaSIS box. Check alignment of the exhaust tips and spacing around the tips. Once all is aligned carefully tighten all bolts and clamps. Replace mid cross bar. Replace belly pans. Carefully lower the front of the car and then ride off ramps.

Step 20

You are done! Enjoy your new and awesome HFC and exhaust!

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Need to hook up an iPod to your Audi?

I’ll be the first to admit: Car stereo is way out of my league. Yes, I can install a new headunit (or in my case, my RNS-E navigation system), but when it comes to adding auxiliary cables or Bluetooth kits, I’m lost. Thankfully, Enfig Car Stereo, a company in New Jersey, has put together a truly amazing guide listing all iPod solutions for your A3, A4, A6, A8, R8, as well as many other Audi and Volkswagen models. Check out all the information and installation videos on their blog.

Why Choosing Correct Oil Is Important

Audi’s engines tend to defy the conventional logic: small displacement but big potential for power; temperamental yet reliable. While many of us are accustomed to the general care and maintenance “rules” that were based off of 1950′s Oldsmobile’s and Chevy’s, maintenance on your Audi is much different. Perhaps the issue that new Audi owners struggle with the most is the concept of an oil change. Most likely, your parents or grandparents always advocated for performing an oil change every 3000 miles or 3 months with conventional motor oil, which was cheap and effective. While this has worked for many for decades, most modern auto manufacturers are building engines with higher tolerances and more performance, and are using synthetic motor oil to help extend oil change intervals. While the Audi manuals and dealerships seem to suggest that an oil change every 10,000 miles is ok, many enthusiasts feel that it is not. In this article, we’ll go through some of the basics about oil and why certain oil is correct for your car.

Defining an oil change

Before we get into the details, when I mention “oil change” in this article, I’m referring to the process of draining the oil out and adding new oil, a new oil filter, and a new drain plug. If you’ve never changed your own oil, but would like to learn, we have a DIY on our website for the 1.8T and the 2.0T 4-cylinders that help to walk you through the process.

How long can I drive with my current oil?

This is one of the most important parts of your oil change interval. Many of us are used to the old intervals of 3000 miles or 3 months, but one of the benefits of synthetic oil is the lifespan. While Audi’s service intervals call for an oil change every 10,000 miles, in reality, and to maintain the longevity of your motor, the oil should be changed every 5000 miles. 5000 miles is long enough to get good use out of the oil but short enough to prevent damage from contaminated oil. The oil filter should also be changed every time you change the oil. While some people run the larger filter for 10,000 miles, it’s cheap insurance to replace it at every interval.

What type of oil should I use?

This is a loaded question, and there are two correct answers. Both are dependent on one another, so I’ll start with the most important (in Audi’s eyes).

Due to notorious sludge issues in some of the 1.8T motors, Audi came up with a list of oils that could be used without leading to sludge issues. There are three different standards, which are as follows: VW 502 00, VW 505 01, and VW 504 00/507 00. Audi has a list on their website (which can be viewed here in PDF format) that stipulates which specific manufacturer’s oils and weights meet their regulations. Often times, the motor oils that are on the list will say (usually on the back of the bottle) that they meet VW xxx xx.

The second correct answer is to follow the weight in your owner’s manual. Most cars will happily take a synthetic 5W-40, but its best to double check to be safe. There may be more than one option for weight, and you should cross reference Audi’s list to make sure what you’re buying is approved.

What does the oil actually do?

While the main function of motor oil is to lubricate moving parts, it also cleans, inhibits corrosion, improves sealing and cools the engine by carrying heat away from moving parts. The fact that it cleans the engine as it cycles through is why it’s important to change the oil and filter every 5000 miles. If it carries away metal particles, and the filter gets overwhelmed, they’ll end up back in your oil pan, and you don’t want them to get sucked up and recirculated.

What’s this (5W-40) mean?

It’s highly likely that the oil you’ll be putting into your Audi will be multi-grade oil, and will therefore have a rating much like the “5W-40″ previously mentioned. Europe and America use multiple viscosity ratings for oils. And there are a couple of trends in the oil industry when it comes to viscosity:

• Oil viscosity numbers are getting lower
• Lighter weight oils work better than they used to at high temperatures

Emissions and fuel economy requirements have, in many cases, driven manufacturers to use lighter weight oils. Since EPA measures include a cold start, light weight oil helps cars perform better in that test. Also, engine tolerances are much tighter than in past years. Thinner oil (especially when cold) can help provide lubrication during those first few critical seconds after a cold start. And today’s synthetics provide much better protection when hot than mineral-based oils did, even if their viscosity rating is lower. For example, 5W-40 weight oil is considered fine for all driving conditions in most Audi gasoline engines, even in the desert in summer.

Anything else?

If you plan on keeping your Audi for a long time, it’s not a bad idea to have an oil analysis done every 10-20,000 miles (after you cross over the 50,000 mile threshold). I, as well as many of the Audi enthusiasts I know, use Blackstone Laboratories as their oil analysis go-to. You send them a sample from the oil (when you change it) and give them a few details, and they’ll send you back a report detailing what they find and they’re recommended course of action. It’s not necessary, but it’s a good way to give your car an occasional checkup.

This blog article only scratches the surface of motor oils, but there is a fine line between conveying the proper information and getting too in depth and technical that the fine points are lost (or more importantly, I can’t understand or explain the information). If you stick to 5000 mile oil changes using an Audi approved oil, your car will run well for many more years.