Audi A4 B7 2.0T Oil Change

March 19, 2010 |  by  |  Audi Maintenance, Featured

2.0T Oil Change: Yes, you can do it!

An oil change is an important part of your car’s maintenance regimen. Because of the synthetic oil used on many modern Audis, the recommended interval is 5000 miles. The B7 oil change is slightly more involved than the B6, but in many ways it’s more efficient, and most definitely less messy. It may seem daunting, but it’s quite an easy process. Audiction took advantage of a beautiful, warm March day to prepare a detailed DIY to help guide you through your first oil change on your 2.0T. Before you know it, you’ll be a pro! Some of the items are interchangeable; what’s listed is what we used.

Audi Models

  • Audi A4 B7 2.0T (2005.5 – 2008)

Parts Required

Tools Required

Instructions

Step 1

Drive the car to warm up the engine oil. About 15 minutes of driving is sufficient to get the oil warm. We added a bottle of Motul Engine Clean to degunk the engine a bit. If you choose to follow this, you can add this and let the car idle for 15 minutes instead of driving it. We found the oil to be warm enough.

Step 2

Drive the car onto ramps or put it on jack-stands. Make sure the car is secured properly before climbing underneath.

Step 3

Remove the belly pan using the flat head screwdriver.

Step 4

Open the hood and remove the oil cap to let the pressure in the crankcase escape. This should go without saying, but make sure your car is off before removing the oil cap. Set the cap aside and carefully clean around the hole into the crankcase (if it’s dirty). Be careful not to let any dirty or debris fall in.

Step 5

Locate the engine oil filter. It is on the driver’s side of the engine right above the motor mount. Unscrew the protective cap on the bottom of the oil filter. From underneath the car, screw the head of oil filter housing drain tube into the bottom of the filter until you feel resistance. Then connect the hose, making sure the line is pinched. Continue to screw until you hear the click of the drain valve. Oil should start to drain down the hose. Un-pinch the hose and let it drain into your drain pan. When it’s done, re-pinch the hose and let it catch whatever else drips out.

Step 6

Climb under the car. If you’ve never done an oil change before, it’s a good idea to lay a piece of cardboard down under the oil pan. Grab your ratchet and 19mm socket. The drain plug is on the passenger side of the car. Make sure the socket is seated properly and steadily apply pressure until the initial bond breaks. For the most part, you should be able to unscrew the bolt by hand (be careful, the oil pan is probably still very warm).

Step 7

Grab your drain pan and hold it up close to where the drain plug is. Continue to unscrew the plug. You’ll start to see oil drip out, and you’ll start to get a sense of where the end is. When the plug finally releases, let it drop into the drain pan. By holding it close to the plug, hopefully you’ve caught the initial jet of oil and it hasn’t sprayed all over your driveway. You can lower the pan to the ground; just gauge where the oil flow is going. As it slows, it will trickle out. Let the oil drain out for about 10 minutes or so.

Step 8

Go back to the engine oil filter. Drain any remaining oil and unscrew the hose and head. Use the oil filter socket (you may need an extension), and unscrew the oil filter from under the car. Once you break the initial bond, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Remove the assembly, and drain any oil into the drain pan. Discard the old filter.

Step 9

Take your new filter and seal out of the box. Note how the old seal is situated on the filter housing (there’s a little tab sticking up, use that to gauge its relative position). Remove the old seal, dab the new seal with some of the used engine oil, and reinstall it. Put the new filter in the housing and screw it back into position. You may need to apply some pressure to help it catch the threads, but once it catches, it should screw on effortlessly. Use the torque wrench and tighten the filter to 25 nm (neuton meters). Reinstall the protective cap.

Step 10

Screw your new oil drain plug into the oil pan. Screw it in by hand so you don’t cross-thread it. When it’s tight, use a torque wrench and tighten to 30 nm (neuton meters). If you don’t have access to a torque wrench, tighten it with a ratchet just to the point that you feel resistance, and then give about a quarter turn.

Step 11

Add your engine oil. The 2.0T has a capacity of 4.5L of oil. Add it slowly through the hole in the crankcase. If you’re unsure of exactly how much to add, err on the side of caution and add less (you can always add more, but it’s a pain to take oil out). Make sure the cap is on tight.

Step 12

Start the car and check for leaks. If there are none, reinstall the belly pan and put the car back on the ground. After the car has run for ~10 minutes, check the oil level and adjust as necessary. Dispose of the old engine oil properly (I put it in the oil containers that are now empty, a funnel helps greatly here). Local laws differ, but most gas stations or places that sell oil will take your old oil from you.

Step 13

Clean up and enjoy the money you saved by DIY’ing!

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37 Comments


  1. Thanks Matt. Great post with excellent illustrative photos. I intend to try this tomorrow. Is there any way to do the filter change without buying the $35 tool to drain it?

    • No buy the tool at Amazon.com for $ 24.00

      • You don’t need it, It’s just a little messier. The oil will get onto the subframe, nothing you can’t wipe off. Just make sure that there’s a large cardboard, tarp, or whatever to catch any that spills out of you used oil receptacle. At the most we’re taking about a cup of oil coming out. I just did it today and saved myself 25bucks.

        You WILL need a 36mm socket and extension to remove the filter cover and also unscrew the cap that allows the oil drain tool access(not using the tool).

        Do all this from the bottom with the car on stands. The filter/cover does come out from the bottom just a jiggle it in through….use your spacial negotiation skills. Once the filter, new o’ring(supplied w/filter) is in the cover you’ll need to press it back into the housing unit and then turn. A little snug and you’ll be clumsy if it’s your first time.

        Don’t over tighten. You can use the socket and some say use a torque wrench to 25nm, but I don’t fee it’s necessary. Reason is you don’t want to loosen or break anything in the housing that the filter cover screws onto…expensive. Be deliberate, but don’t need to kill it on. Remember you need to take it off again. hope this helps.

  2. Hi Len. In my opinion, while you could just unscrew the filter housing and take it off with all the oil intact, you would most likely not be able to navigate it out and around the subframe crossmembers (like I did) without spilling any oil. I feel like the tool makes the job much easier (and cleaner), as the filter housing holds a decent amount of oil (that would otherwise be all over the subframe, ground, and your hand).

    Matt

    • Hey Matt. Thanks again. Guess I will have to try and find the tool tomorrow morning as it does appear as though it makes for a cleaner oil change.

  3. Hi Matt,
    Do you need to replace the drain plug every time you change the oil? Thanks for a great article.

    • I think it’s preferable but you don’t have to. as long as you replace the washer, you should be all set.

      • The drain plug on my 2006 has a built-in washer. You are supposed to replace the drain plug/washer every other oil change.

        Also, you can push in the nipple on the filter housing with a screw driver and you can bleed the oil out that way.

  4. I just performed by first Audi oil change after a month with my 2008 A4 and this write up was very helpful. I didn’t have the oil filter socket and it increased my oil change by about an hour and a half. I had to go to AutoZone and rent a 36mm socket and then had to go back and buy the 1/2 inch ratchet extension because that was the only way to do it. Each time I went to AutoZone, it took about 15-20 minutes to get out of there because of the amount of people there.

    You really don’t need the $35 drain tube. I used a flat screw driver to push the nipple (as John suggested above) to let the oil drain along with a funnel hose that I pulled out from a funnel to let the oil drain. No mess. Just make sure you hold the funnel hose right under the black housing because it drains straight down. It doesn’t shoot out like it does on the oil pan. The drain tube is ideal, but for $35 I would much rather use that money to buy another case of synthetic oil.

    Next oil change, I’m definitely getting the oil filter socket. If I have extra money to spend, I’ll get the drain tube, but we’ll see how I’m doing economically then.

  5. Used this DIY last night to do my oil change for the first time after going off free Audi maintenance. Great write-up and very much appreciated. Drain tube made it no mess for sure, and I’m glad I had it, but I understand the hesitation over the price. I’m just going to write it off over the lifetime of oil changes and not worry about it. Biggest pain in the butt of the whole procedure was getting the belly pan screws back on! No wonder half of them are missing from other shops taking it off and putting it back on! :)

  6. This is very helpfull and I will do my next oil change. I will purchase the tool and parts needed, grate refrances.
    But was wondering how to reset the service reminder?

    • 1 Look at the dash instrument cluster and notice the square digital odometer in the center of the dash. There are two buttons, one on each side of the tripometer. The one on the right has a picture of a wrench on it and the other side sets the tripometer. This procedure works on Audi A4, S4, B6 and B7 models from 2002 to present.

      2 Hold the wrench button down and turn the ignition key to the “On” position, without starting the engine.

      3 Push the left “0” button and hold it until the message center states “Service! Indicator Reset Procedure/ Service Indicator Reset Complete.” Release the buttons and turn the key to the “Off” position.

      Read more: How to Reset an Audi Service Light | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5102925_reset-audi-service-light.html#ixzz1oD1H4Qf2

  7. I’m changing the oil on my 2006 Audi Quattro 2.0 (B7). There is an electrical plug attached to a suspension mount that is directly in line with the bottom of the filter canister prohibiting me from getting the 36mm wrench on the canister. Can anyone tell me how to disconnect the plug, please?

  8. I just did this, good job Matt. The plug has a tab on the top side near were the cable comes in. Apply a bit of preasure to the tap and pul off.

    • Audi engineering at its finest. Why put an electrical wire in the way. Drain tool can’t be installed with it in the way. There is no tab on the wire for a 2008 B7. Can anybody tell me how to remove the wire?

      Thanks

      • I just did my oil today. Connector sucks. There is a little clip on the side of the connector facing fire wall, stick head of little screwdriver in and twist, hear a click, pull off connector.

      • Anyone know what the electrical plug is for??

  9. I followed these directions and it make it so easy! Thanks for the helpful photos. This was the first oil change I have done myself on my 2007 Audi A4 so I saved a ton of money. I could not ahve done it without your help!! THANKS

  10. Used the good instruction and great pics to change the oil in my newly purchased ’06 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0L.

    I especially liked the links to the tools & parts–I used these to buy the oil, engine cleaner, magnetic plug with 10 copper washers, filter, and the $35 filter cap drain tool. Everything came in fast, and worked as expected.

    I was apprehensive about the price on the drain tool, but if you amortize it over the life of the car, it probably costs less than $2 per oil change–well worth it, IMO.

    Since the oil container has 5 liters, I just poured 1/2 liter into another container, then emptied the remaining 4.5 liters into the car. I don’t know of a better way of getting just 4.5 liters into the car using such a large container to start with.

    Kinda funny that the first pic shows oil being poured, but without the built-in nozzle pulled out.

  11. Good job on the write-up. I have changed my oil about 10 times now on my ’07 A4 (137,000 mi), but never drained the oil from the filter canister before unscrewing it! I’ve gotten pretty good at containing the mess. A better explanation with pics of that procedure would be helpful to many if you do an update on this post.

    Thanks,
    Mike

  12. Where do you get your ideas for the posts? I have a blog on similar subject but I’m running out of ideas for new posts :o)

  13. Great write-up! I know how to reset the service interval so its all —, but was wondering if anyone knows how to set the service interval to a specfic mileage and date.

  14. Hey this is in response to weather or not you need the special tool to drain the oil filter housing. I found that if you take a flat head screw driver and push up on the nipple where the hose(special tool) screws into you can push it up and too the side and it stays and lets the oil drain out of the housing that way. A little oil drains onto your car but it doesn’t get really messy at all if your careful. Just make sure you have cardboard underneath your drip pan.

  15. I forgot to mention that I used a small set of channel locks to unscrew the oil filter housing. They work great for both taking off and screwing back in once its hand tight.

  16. Is there any way to perform a top side oil change using a vacuum pump device? Does the B8 A4 have a dipstick?

    • Topsider Oil Change–I just did a complete oil and filter change from the TOP of my 2006 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro

      a) Loosen but do not remove oil cap
      b) Use topsider vacuum pump to remove oil
      c) Disconnect electrical connector in the way of the filter.

      –IMPORTANT TO FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE BELOW TO MINIMIZE OIL SPILLAGE FROM REMOVING THE OIL FILTER

      d) Using Old Absorbant rags, line the driver side of your subframe, etc. as some oil will spill from removing the filter.

      e) Remove protective drain plug cover from filter, should screw out with your finger

      f) using a 3/8″ ratchet and oil filter socket, BEGIN to loosen the oil filter

      g) remove ratchet as you will be able to spin off plastic housing.

      h) prime your TOP SIDER AGAIN and be ready to insert the drain house into the housing and start vacuum as soon as plastic housing separates from metal engine housing.

      **THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT TO MINIMIZE ENGINE SPILLAGE**

      i) suction out oil from plastic housing, spin off housing,
      remove filter and o-ring.

      REINSTALL FILTER, O-RING into plastic housing and spin on hand tight

      j) Using ratchet, tighten securely taking care not to over-tighten

      k) spin on protective cover

      l) add oil, start car, check for leaks

      • Followed the above instructions using a Mityvac 7201. Piece of cake, but ended up using a filter drain tube. Spent too much time trying to get the tube through the belly pan, but it all works out. Found a small hole an all was good.

        Tip to all: a topside oil change is so easy! it takes all of the mess away from the procedure, and takes no additional time. Mityvac is the way to go.

  17. Matt, I just did my second oil change on my 2007 A4 2.0T
    But for some reason I got a check engine light when I completed. I checked the filter and plug, there both tight and not leaking. Any ideas? Thanks

  18. Great Post! Did my first oil change on my new (at least new to me) 2008 Audi A4 2.0T. I had to borrow a 36mm socket rench from a neighbor and did not have the drain tube, but will be prepared next time.

  19. Never perform a ‘topside’ oil change, because you’re leaving behind the most damaging part of old oil; The acids. And there’s no such thing as a ‘good’ 10 minute ‘quick lube’ change.

    Oil is the life blood of your engine, and your engine will be destroyed in 30 seconds without it. Today’s synthetics can last 15,000 miles, but the oil filter will not remove the corrosive acids that are a normal part of the combustion process. That is why it is still a good idea to change your oil every 3000 to 4000 miles.

    I am a hydraulic and lube filter engineer and previously an aircraft mechanic. I will tell you that nothing is more important than doing an oil change the way my powerplant instructor taught me to do 15 years ago:

    Change the oil filter cartridge. Then remove the drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan, and drain the oil until it drips for 15 minutes, then flush one pint of fresh oil into the engine, to flush out the remaining corrosive acids that rest at the bottom of the oil pan when your engine is at rest, and gnaw away at bearing surfaces when it’s running. Let that drain for 15 minutes before you install the drain plug. Then add your 4 1/2 quarts into the engine.

    Engine (lube) filters are designed to let anything larger than 4 microns pass through the media. If we made them tighter, it would remove the detergent pack from the oil. The corrosive acids that eat away at an engine are less that .5 microns in size – that’s ten times smaller than the filter can catch. Practice this, and your engine will live a long and healthy life.

  20. Great tutorial and very helpful – I see that this has been asked a couple of times already, but since there is no answer yet I will ask again.

    How do you reset the service reminder on the dash?

  21. For the oil filter housing, you will need a 1 7/16 socket with extension.

  22. I am purchasing a 2006 audi a4 2.0t Quattro, and was thinking about getting the mightyvac to suck out the oil rather than using the drain plug. do I still need to removed the belly pan to remove the oil filter? if so I will skip on buying the mightyvac.

  23. Today I performed the first oil change on my 2005.5 A4 since I got her last year. I’ve been taking her to the dealership for my oil changes, they charge $80 and it seemed worth it seeing as how they have free coffee, food and vitamin water. However after doing this oil change i think even with those tempations I’ll continue to do it myself. It was actually the easiest oil change I’ve ever done on any of my Audi’s. I currently have a 93′ Urs4 and I’ve also owned a 2000 A4 1.8T neither of which was a pain to change the oil in but in comparison to my 05′ they were/are. The only time I had to get under the car was to drain the oil via the drain plug. I guess the dealership forgot to put my belly pan back on my car so I didn’t have to deal with that. In fact i might have a word with them, see if they could furnish another, but back to the nature at hand. I bought the drain hose off amazon for about 24 bucks and I’m really glad I did, because I could see how there would be quite the mess if you didn’t have one. my suggestion, just pony up the doe for the tool, it makes life a lot easier and also get the 35/36 mm oil filter socket, it’s on there pretty tight and i could see how it would be pretty annoying trying to get it off by hand or with another tool. I took the oil filter off from above, just reached down put the socket on and loosened her up. There’s plenty of room to get it out from above and plenty of room to get the wrench in there without an extension. The whole thing took me about an hour, thats from warming the car up to closing the hood and cleaning up. I fallowed the directions using the 15 minute warm up as well as the 10 minute drain and 10 minute start/idle/adding of oil until at the a good level. I’m gonna be making this a routine from now on and I have Matt to thank for the write-up, thanks Matt I really appreciate it.

  24. Thanks Matt for this excellent post.
    I was wondering if this topic can be used also for changing the oil for an 1.9tdi audi a4.

  25. thanks for your detailed post! excellent job. i will perform the oil change as soon as it gets warmer outside :)

    by the way i noticed that you mentioned using a
    Magnetic Drain Plug (Part #N90813202) which is obviously the one in the pic that goes back in with a copper washer.

    though audi says using a new loctite filled drain plug PN 028103059A size M24x1.5 (metric) to get the hole sealed properly.

    what’s the deal with those different drain plugs? any hints?
    many thanks

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