Audi 2.7T Oil Change

May 27, 2010 |  by  |  Audi Maintenance, Featured
Audi 2.7T Oil Change

So easy, a 4-year-old can do it!

$120 for an oil change? You have to be kidding me, especially if you do it every 5,000 miles with synthetic oil. Now, I know Audi says you can go 10,000 miles, but that  idea dates back to the time when Audi had to pay for maintenance, and most agree synthetic oil is on its last legs after 5,000 miles, especially in a twin turbo motor. For about 50% cheaper and just 30 minutes, you can change your oil by yourself, or train your kid to do it for you in exchange for a box of animal crackers.

Audi Models

  • All Audi 2.7T Motors
  • This DIY was performed on a C5 allroad 2.7T Tiptronic

Parts Required

Complete 2.7T Oil Change Kit consisting of:

Tools Required

  • Ramps or jack/jack stands
  • T-50 Torx head
  • Wide flat blade screwdriver
  • 19mm wrench or socket
  • Strap wrench
  • Funnel
  • A willing 4-year-old

Instructions

Overview of the Procedure

This is probably one of the easiest tasks to perform on your car.  You will be removing the splash guard on the underside of your car, draining the used oil, replacing the oil filter and refilling with clean oil.  Depending on the exact model of your car, you may not need any special tools other than Torx ratchet heads, which will only cost you about $20 for a set.

Note 1: Many companies claim to have filters that fit the 2.7T motor. They are NOT all equal. Many do not fit, as the threading is too shallow, and others are MUCH smaller than the OEM/Mann filters. I strongly suggest Mann or OEM for filters.

Note 2: Audi has approved oils for each motor. Be sure to only use those oils that meet this standard. Check the label on the oil. For the 2.7T, it should say “Meets VW Spec 502 00″

Note 3: The motor will be hot, even with only a few minutes of driving. Use caution.

Step 1

I prefer to do oil changes with the engine slightly warm (not flaming hot), so drive the car for about 5-10 minutes (not just idle).  Drive the car on ramps or jack up and place on jack stands to give sufficient access to the front undercarriage.

Step 2

Remove the underside splash guard. This is accomplished by removing the two T-50 Torx bolts and the six Flat Head dowel pins. With all hardware removed, pull toward the rear of the vehicle and down. Place out of the way.  With the splash guard off, it’s a good idea to take a quick look around for any signs of leaks or any other potential mechanical issues.

Step 3

Position ground cover and catch basin below the 19mm drain hole. Loosen the drain bolt and out comes the old, nasty oil. While the oil is draining, see if you can remove the oil filter with your hands. If not, use the strap wrench to gently loosen it. If your catch basin is large enough, unscrew the filter entirely. Please note that the filter will be full of oil.  Allow both the drain hole and filter hole to drain completely.

Step 4

Once the oil has completely drained, replace the 19mm drain bolt with the new bolt supplied in the kit. You can torque to 30 nm, or do 1/4 turn past snug. Using clean oil, lube the gasket of the filter and screw it on hand tight, using one hand. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, and there is NO need to use a strap wrench or any other device other than your hand.

Step 5

Next, we begin the refilling process. Open the hood of the car, unscrew the oil cap and place it out of the way. Place a funnel in the filler hole.  SLOWLY pour oil in, being very careful not to spill or splatter. It’s also a good idea to check for leaks after some oil has been poured in. Assuming there are no leaks, add 6 quarts of oil and then check the oil level on the dipstick. If it is below the operating range (indicated by the marks on the dipstick) add enough oil to meet the indicated range, being careful to not overfill. (Overfilling oil can be equally as bad as underfilling). My allroad will typically take 6.5 quarts.

Step 6

Screw oil cap back on, double-check for leaks under the car, reattach the splash guard, clean up your tools and you’re done. You can take your used oil to any automotive parts stores for recycling. Most major chains take it at no charge.  After driving around for a few minutes, double-check the oil level on even ground.

Step 7

Go get that kid some well-earned animal crackers!


12 Comments


  1. “My allroad will typically take 6.5 quarts.”

    This is absolutely incorrect. The Audi allroad 2.7T manual specifies 7.3 quarts. I ALMOST short-changed my car, after reading your post. My dipstick still read LOW after 7qts…

    • Over filling is equally as dangerous as under filling. Of course you should always check the dipstick to ensure you refilled you engine with the proper amount of oil. Also be sure the car is on flat ground when checking the oil level. 6.5 quarts typically puts me in the middle of the operating range on the dipstick.

  2. 5 000 mile oil changes, you have to be kidding me too!
    So if one would drive many short trips, 5000 miles would quickly free fall hitting 2500 before blinking. totally not awesome, since not adhering to any of it will bite you in the ass in form of engine replacement?

    Fun!

  3. I’m surprised at the two negative comments. 6.5 quarts seems about right; if you want to be nitpicky, I used about 6.8. 7.3 quarts is for an absolutely dry engine, and I’d be impressed if you can take out all 7.3 quarts of old oil on your change. The exact number doesn’t matter, the right amount is whatever the dipstick tells you.

    This is a great DIY and I followed this website to change my 2.7T’s oil for the first time a year ago.

  4. Thanks DV !! Personally, I agree they are being a bit harsh, after all the kid is only 4 years old. He cried when I read the feedback to him. Luckily, I was able to cheer him up by discussing a few more projects with him.

  5. Thank you for posting this write up! It saved me from spending over $100 extra at the dealership. Unfortunately I found out that the siphon pumps to extract the oil via the dip stick tube does not work well on the A6 2.7T, as it does on other vehicles. Thanks again! (BTW, I had to add 6.75 quarts, so your instructions looked fine to me)

  6. great diy – thanks!

  7. Great write-up. Worked just the same on my 2002 c5 a6 3.0 quattro. I got the filter and oil from the dealer and they provided 7 qts of castrol syntec.

    I don’t have a garage so I had to do this in the street. I actually put the front left side on the curb and the jack sat on a sturdy concrete curb so that when I raised the car I had an extra couple of inches. After I opened it all up to drain I lowered the jack to get our more oil and lifted it back up to put on the new filter and refill.

  8. Jim,

    thanks for taking the time to write this up. It helped me a lot on my allroad.

  9. Thanks for the great write-up. You gave me the confidence to try this myself. I did it yesterday with no problems.
    Cheers,
    Ben

  10. I did it on my B5 S4 Tiptronic with just the standard ‘widow maker’ jack. I started by jacking up the driver’s side, removed the drain plug and filter, then swapped the jack over to the passenger side to help tip the oil out. I used about 6.75 quarts to get into the middle of the dipstick range.

  11. Good DIY!I do the oil change on my manual transmission allroad by raising the car to level 4 and I put jack stand under just in case. If you change the oil filter the dip stick will read right in the middle of the sweet spot after 6 quarts. Drive the car, or idle it and the oil gets sucked up in the oil filter. My car required 0.5 quarts after that. So 6.5 quarts does it! But like Jim said: check the dipstick, as you fill it, you dick!

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