Audi 01V Tiptronic Transmission Fluid Change
Nothing lasts forever…
As the C5 platform ages, the Tiptronic transmissions can become troublesome. Audi claims the transmission is filled with “lifetime” fluid and does not recommend service of any type. That being said, the term “lifetime” is subjective and it’s naive to think that the fluid can maintain its lubrication properties indefinitely. If you have 1) over 60,000 miles on your car or 2) are experiencing hard shifts or hesitation, you may want to consider this service. This can be done solo, but there are several steps where an extra set of hands will come in handy.
Audi Models
- All Audi 01V Tiptronic Transmissions
- This DIY was done on an A6/allroad C5 2.7T Tiptronic car
Parts Required
Tools Required
- Four (4) jack stands and a floor jack or an automotive lift (Note: It is NOT advisable to use ramps at all as you will need to put the car in gear while lifted)
- Flat head screwdriver
- Small level
- 8 mm Allen head socket
- 17 mm Allen head socket
- T-25 Torx head socket
- A good ratchet set with extensions
- Torque wrench
- Waste catch basin
- Disposable ground cover (job can get a bit messy)
- Ross-Tech VAG-COM cable and software
- Lint free disposable shop towels
- Hyperactive/Insomniac Bulgarian Elevator Repairman (optional, but recommended)
Note 1: Powerflush or Transmission flushes of any kind are NOT recommended. There’s a theory that these types of services can actually deposit debris into the valve body, which will only compound problems, or in a worst case scenario, ruin the transmission.
Note 2: At 60,000 miles, the timing belt/water pump service is close to being due. It is a good idea to do the transmission service AFTER the timing belt/water pump has been replaced. Why? The transmission cooler lines need to be disconnected to access the crank lock pin. This is not a big deal, but you will lose a bit of transmission fluid in the process.
Instructions
Overview of the Procedure
With the car lifted and perfectly level, you will be draining the fluid in the belly pan, removing the belly pan, cleaning it and reinstalling it with fresh fluid, filter and gasket. In order to accomplish the proper fluid level, a VAG-COM cable and software must be used to read the fluid temperature while filling. It is essential to cycle through the gears with the car running while filling in order to get the proper fluid levels. Note: When draining, keep in mind that the fluid expands when hot. Take precautions not to burn yourself and remember, the hotter the fluid, the more of it will drain, and the more clean fluid you can get back in.
Step 1
Using a jack and jack stands or a lift, raise and support the car at a height sufficient to gain access to the underside of the vehicle. Make sure all tires are at least four (4) inches off the ground. (NOTE: on the allroad, make sure to engage JACK MODE before jacking the vehicle. This is done with the key on and holding both the up and down buttons until the icon appears on the dash).
Step 2
Take a flat blade screwdriver and twist the five dowel pins counterclockwise to remove the rear splash guard covering the transmission belly pan.
Step 3
Check the belly pan for level. Take measurements sideways and front to back. If the pan is not leveled, make appropriate adjustments until perfectly level. This is a very important step.
Step 4
Locate the 8mm Allen drain plug and the 17 mm Allen fill plug on the belly pan and position your ground cover and catch basin below them.
Step 5
Loosen the 17mm Allen fill plug first. We want to make sure we can refill the transmission before we drain it. Do not remove it yet (if you did, no big deal)
Step 6
Locate the 8mm Allen head drain plug and remove it. Allow the fluid to drain.
Step 7
Remove the fill plug, allow any additional fluid to drain (there may be none).
Step 8
Using the T-25 Torx head and ratchet, loosen the 27 fasteners holding the belly pan. Remove all but 2 fasteners on opposite ends. If you have an extra set of hands, have one person support the pan while the other removes the remaining fasteners. Lower the pan and gasket and dump the excess fluid into your catch container. Remove the old gasket and discard.
Step 9
The next step involves wiping down the inside of the belly pan and cleaning the magnets. Solvents are not necessary and you do not want the risk of any residue solvents breaking down the new fluid. Simply wipe down the inside of the pan and clean the magnets with disposable, lint free shop towels. Make sure no debris of any kind is left behind during this process.
Step 10
Locate the two T-25 Torx fasteners securing the filter and remove them. Be careful not to touch or loosen any of the other fasteners. With the fasteners removed, coax the filter out by gently pulling down and rotating it side to side.
Step 11
Lube the gasket on the new filter with clean ATF fluid. Install the new filter and torque the fasteners to 5Nm (44 INCH lbs)
Step 12
Reinstall the Belly Pan and New Gasket. Using the socket + extension, we inserted 4 fasteners at opposite sides to maintain alignment of the gasket and fastener holes. Once properly aligned, hand tighten all the bolts. Once all bolts are in place Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft lb). Do not use RTV or gasket sealers. In order to achieve uniform torque, choose 2 fasteners opposite of each other as start points. Torque the fasteners in an alternating fashion until all are fully secured.
Step 13
Replace gaskets on drain and fill plugs, lube both with clean ATF fluid.
Step 14
Install drain plug and torque to 12Nm (9ft lbs)
Step 15
Hook up the VAG-COM cable and go to: Select Control Module > 02 Auto Trans > 08 Meas. Blocks > Group 004. This will allow you to monitor the temperature of the ATF fluid. Do NOT start the vehicle yet. Just keep the key in the ON position.
Step 16
With the car still OFF, begin pumping fluid back into the transmission. You will need to insert the hose up through the fill hole and towards the back of the vehicle. It should take about 2.5 – 3 quarts before some overflows. Hand tighten the fill plug.
Step 17
Take an initial reading of the ATF fluid temp. It should read well below 40 degrees Celsius. If the fluid is hotter than that, you’ll need to wait until it cools down.
Step 18
Start the car. While keeping your foot on the brake, cycle through all the gears, holding each gear for 15 seconds. Go from “P” through “D” and back up from “D” to “P”. It is not necessary to run through the gears via the TIP mode. With the car in “P” and motor still running, remove the fill plug again and start pumping again until overflow. Also, be mindful that the ATF fluid temp must be below 40 degrees Celsius. Cycle through the gears again and pump fluid in until overflow while the car is still running. Repeat this process as many times as you can before the fluid reaches 40 degrees. Once you are approaching 40 degrees Celsius, re-install the fill plug before shutting off the motor. If you fail to do this, the car will dump fluid. Allow the car and fluid to cool down.
Step 19
Once the car and ATF Fluid cools down (we waited until 32 degrees Celsius) start the car again and cycle the gears, same as before. Open the fill plug and continue pumping fluid into the transmission until overflow. Continue to cycle the gears and pump fluid until you reach 40 Degrees. Once you reach 40 degrees, pump until overflow, and reinstall the fill plug. Once the fill plug is re-installed, shut off the motor. Torque the fill plug to 80Nm (59 ft lbs).
Step 20
If you did the process correctly, you should have gotten 6.5-7 quarts into the transmission, minus the spillage.
Step 21
Clean up your tools and work area and go for a test drive. Drive with a light throttle until all of that fluid has a chance to work itself through.
Step 22
Re-inspect the belly pan for leaks, etc. and assuming all is OK with the test drive, re-install splash cover and you’re done! Unless…
1)You did not get at least 6 quarts in OR
2) Issues arose on the test drive
proceed to step 23.
Step 23
Jack the car up again and allow it to cool for several hours or overnight. Then, start the car, cycle the gears and remove the fill plug. Keep pumping fluid until you get overflow at 40 degrees Celsius. Remember to reinsert the fill plug before shutting down the motor.
Step 24
You are done! Enjoy much smoother shifting.
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Jamie on 
carlos on 
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Drew on
Excellent DIYC! I will be using this info when changing the fluid and filter on my 2002 allroad this coming weekend.
The procedure is clear and descriptive. I understand every step.
Thanks for teh feedback. Good luck and take your time with it.
Notes from my experience in changing the transmission fluid and filter in my 2002 allroad 2.7T with 116K miles:
The 27 fasteners in step 8 were T-27 Torx, not T-25.
In step 10, the two fasteners which hold the filter to the inside of the transmission were T-40 Torx, not T-25.
I started with a 27 degree C transmission. As a result just under 5 liters was drained from the transmission. This included what had remained in the pan. I let the transmission drain overnight.
The inside of the pan and the magnets did have a very thin layer of sludge. This was actually better than expected. There were no whiskers of metal on the magnets.
When initially filling the transmission (before starting the engine) I was able to pump about 3.5 liters into the fill opening before the fluid started to overflow. After starting the engine and cycling through the gears several times (before the transmission temperature reached 40 degrees C) I pumped a total of just over 5.25 liters. This included about .25 liters of overflow/spillage.
Thanks for the comments, I’ll double check those fastener sizes again.
Brilliant write up! Quick question, would this be the same method for an EYJ autobox on a 2003 2.5TDi in the UK? Is this the same gearbox? Thanks.
Thanks Joe –
I’ve been searching all over to see if the gearboxes are the same and I’ve had no luck. It seems that information on the geographic platform is only available locally. Sorry.
Jim, thanks for looking. I found out they are the same, carried out the oil change recently, all went well. Thanks again.
Awesome write up! Cheers m8.
I just did something really stupid! I managed to drain the transmission rather than the engine oil. YIKES. Ok, this dummy has two questions: perhaps more.
1) Can I level the car and refill the trans using the procedures you’ve outlined? I don’t want to drop the pan and all that unless it is mandatory? The car has had it’s 80k service.
2) is there any other way to measure the temp of the fluid other than the Vag-Com device, to get the right amount of fluid into the unit?
3) Any other comments (and don’t worry about beating me up–already done!)
I’ve just done the same, what did you do in the end?
Thanks for the write-up. One question – when you say to level the belly pan, where do I put the level? On the rim where the bolts are? Near the drain plug? In the center? It makes a difference.
I’d check the center of the pan and the frame rails. Mine was done on a lift from the pinch welds, and the center of the pan showed level
I looked at the cable you referenced, and was wondering if a similar one from ebay would work. I’m on a shoestring budget and only using it once. If I can use a generic one that costs much less it would be REALLY nice! Otherwise thank you SO much for this write up, I feel it will be extremely helpful in the near future.
I don’t think the generic cable would work, but I’m not sure. If you plan on owning an Audi long term, get a real cable. Also, check the Audi forums for people nearby that might lend you one. Usually some beer is a good gesture.
Awsome write up..period! What “cable” are you guys refering to? I to, would like to perform this service sans VAG-COM. Is this possible?
As Jack Christensen said, the 27 fasteners in step 8 are indeed T-27′s, they just need to be seated fully in the fastener or else you’ll think they are too big and you’ll use smaller T-25s. I removed all but 1 fastener while doing this with a T-25 and nearly stripped that last fastener before I realized that a T-27 was the right fit.
I’ve been told and would have to agree from my first hand experience that adding a bottle of Lubeguard Auto Tranny fluid protectant makes the transmission feel better while driving.
If you are on the final stages and filling the tranny with fluid and you happen to reach 40C- it took about 3 hours in 40-45F temperature for mine to cool to 32C. So if you were doing this in the summer time, you might be best off just waiting over night.
If anyone is doing this fluid replacement because their VAG is reading out failure code 17125/P0741, don’t expect this to miraculously save you!
Thanks for the awesome DIY write-up!
Great write up.
Do you guys know the oil capacity for a 2004 A4 Tiptronic Transmission?
I change my fluid recently but only put there around 5 quarts
I don’t know the capacity off the top of my head, but it’s somewhat irrelevant because even with the drain and refill, you won’t get 100% of the fluid out of the transmission. Fluid will remain in the valve body and cooler lines
I assume the top off procedure is the same, but I’m not as familiar with that transmission. How much fluid drained out?
I have a 03 A4 quattro with 174,xxx miles just bought it from auction crashed in front. Lost some tranny fluid. I figured I would have it serviced and changed. Would you suggest flushing the trans? Or just changing out the fluid? Thank you
I have a 01 a6 whit a triptonic transmission and lately it feels like its sliping or not shifting gears when I slow down about 20-30 mph, when accelerate again its like I have to wait until the gears are engaged do you thing I should replace the atf. Any suggestion?
It’s hard to say whether it would help or not. Do you suspect a leak? I’d first take it to a mechanic familiar with Audi tiptronics.
Thanks for your write-up! (2002 A4 1.8T B6 w/ 130K) I serviced the trans today and i gotta say audi’s lifetime “no service is requied” is pure BS. The fluid was extreemly dirty and the internal magnets had piles of gunk on them. I really wonder how plugged the filter was… I didnt notice much difference in shifting post flush however i use to have a shimmy when making tight turns (like the AWD was binding) but its all cleared up now. I feel much better after performing this service expecially since audi doesnt provide a dip-stick for the trans so there is no freeking way to see the level or how filthy the fluid is…
thanks again,